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  • Writer's picturePhilip Ioan Zaharie

Tango, Nature, and Colonial Heritage

Updated: Feb 7

• El Calafate (February 27 - March 1, 2023)

• Ushuaia (March 1 - 2, 2023)

• Buenos Aires (March 2 - 5, 2023)

• Colonia del Sacramento (March 4, 2023)


Globetrotters: Philip Zaharie, Ariana Mîndru, Briana Paraschiv, Bianca Faur




 

26 February 2023 - Timișoara to Buenos Aires


The thrill of an impending trip brought with it an air of excitement as the morning sun rose over Timișoara, the city we proudly call home. At 10 am sharp, our car transfer awaited, which brought us in 3 hours in Budapest airport. We boarded Lufthansa fight LH1345 to Frankfurt and later we were boarding flight LH510, Lufthansa longest commercial flight opereted by an amazing Boeing 747-8.


 

27 February 2023 - Buenos Aires to El Calafate


As the first hints of the Southern Hemisphere's sun hinted at the horizon, our anticipation reached its peak. We were almost in Argentina.


The energy of Buenos Aires, Argentina's spirited capital, welcomed us as our flight touched down at 8 am. Our trip in Argentina contiuned with a transfer, whisking us from the sprawling Ezeiza Airport to the conveniently located Aeroparque. The 45-minute drive was a brief but enticing introduction to a city steeped in culture and history.


Aboard Aerolineas Argentinas flight AR1562, we soared over the diverse landscapes of Argentina en route to Cordoba. The fertile Pampas grasslands gave way to the scenic vistas of the Sierras de Córdoba. Though our stop in Cordoba was brief, it served as a poignant reminder of Argentina's rich colonial history and its role as an academic and cultural hub.


One hour later, we took to the skies again on Aerolineas Argentinas flight AR1257, with Patagonia as our beacon. The landscapes changed dramatically — from the urban and hilly terrains of Cordoba to the vast, untamed expanses of southern Argentina.


Landing at 9 pm, the crisp air of El Calafate greeted us, a stark contrast to the warmer climates we had left behind in Buenos Aires. Known as the gateway to the glaciers, the town's unique character was evident from the first moment. Silhouettes of the distant Andes Mountains hinted at the adventures that lay ahead.


Our abode for the night was the delightful Blanca Patagonia. This boutique accommodation, with its cozy interiors and rustic charm, provided the perfect setting to rest and rejuvenate. The blend of wood and stone, combined with views of the turquoise Lake Argentino, encapsulated the essence of Patagonian hospitality.


Our second day, a whirlwind of flights and landscapes, culminated in the tranquil surroundings of El Calafate. With the promise of glaciers and the enchantment of Patagonia around us, we drifted into dreams of the adventures to come.


 

28th February 2023 - EL CALAFATE - ECHOES OF ANCIENT ICE AND LIVING WATERS


The morning in El Calafate dawned with a crisp freshness, marking our full day of immersion into the heart of Argentine Patagonia. Today, the allure of glacial wonders and pristine lakes beckoned us away from the cozy embrace of Blanca Patagonia Hostería Boutique y Cabañas.


At 11 am, our transport, a private van, was ready to steer us towards nature's spectacle. The drive provided striking views of the vast Patagonian steppes, a landscape that has remained unchanged for centuries.


Lago Argentino's Liquid Blue


Our first stop was the expansive Lago Argentino. As Argentina's largest freshwater lake, its waters shimmered in varying shades of blue. Its significance is not just its size, but its role as a gathering place for glacial meltwaters from the nearby Andes. Here, the past and present intermingle, as the lake has witnessed centuries of glacial advances and retreats.

Perito Moreno Glacier: Nature's Grandeur

As we approached, the Perito Moreno Glacier unfurled in its full majesty. Towering ice walls, punctuated by deep crevices and punctured by the sound of ice calving, presented a spectacle of nature's raw power. This glacier, unlike many of its contemporaries, is still advancing, a unique phenomenon in today's warming world. As we gazed, the history of countless millennia was etched into every ice formation.

Sailing Close to Ancient Ice

The highlight of the day was the 1-hour cruise, bringing us face to face with the glacier's icy facade. The boat's gentle motion on the water provided contrasting perspectives - from towering ice cliffs to wide panoramic views of the glacier's 250 km² expanse. The occasional thundering sound of ice breaking away reminded us of the glacier's living, moving nature.


El Calafate's Evening Delight

Returning to El Calafate at 5 pm, the town's streets were bathed in the soft glow of the setting sun. The evening was marked by a delightful dinner in town, where the flavors of Patagonia, from succulent lamb to fresh trout, teased our palates.


Our day concluded at Blanca Patagonia Hostería Boutique y Cabañas. With the memories of glacial grandeur fresh in our minds, the comfort of our lodgings provided the perfect endnote.


The day 3, in the embrace of El Calafate, was a reminder of nature's timeless beauty and the ever-evolving story of our planet.

 

1st March 2023 - JOURNEY TO THE WORLD'S EDGE - USHUAIA AWAITS


As morning light bathed El Calafate, we bid farewell to the Lago Argentino and set our sights further south. Our destination was the fabled Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, often romantically referred to as the "End of the World."


Aboard Aerolineas Argentinas flight AR1864, the landscape unfurled beneath us was vast and untouched. The Patagonian steppes gradually gave way to the windswept terrain of Tierra del Fuego, an archipelago that has captured the imagination of explorers for centuries.

At 2.30 pm, our plane touched down amidst the imposing Andes' backdrop. Ushuaia, with its blend of raw nature and a sense of remoteness, was an instant revelation. The town, originally established as a penal colony, is now a bustling hub for Antarctic expeditions and adventure tourism.




Without missing a beat, we set out for Glaciar Martial, eager to witness its panoramic vistas of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel. However, nature had other plans. A cold rain began to fall, its persistent droplets urging us to reconsider. Reluctantly, we heeded nature's call and turned back, reminded of the unpredictability of this wild land.


As we descended from the glacier, the city streets of Ushuaia beckoned with their unique blend of frontier spirit and modernity. Maritime history, tales of indigenous Yámana tribes, and a rich tapestry of cultures have shaped this remote outpost. Each corner whispered stories of sailors, pioneers, and native inhabitants.


No visit to Ushuaia is complete without a moment at the 'Ushuaia - Fin del Mundo' sign. It's a tangible marker of our presence at the very edge of the world. Just a stone's throw away, the 'Ushuaia' sign further amplified the city's status as a truly unique destination.


As evening shadows lengthened, we found our sanctuary at the Las Hayas Ushuaia Resort. Reflecting the elegance of classic Patagonian style, this retreat offered warmth and comfort amidst the wild beauty of Tierra del Fuego.

The fourth day was a testament to the spirit of adventure. From the glacial heights of Martial to the streets of Ushuaia, we were constantly reminded of the wonders that lay at the world's very edge.


 

2nd March 2023 - USHUAIA TO BUENOS AIRES - SAILING, RAILS, AND PENGUIN TRAILS


Morning in Ushuaia greeted us with the promise of exploration. The port, filled with boats and yachts, awaited, and our plan for the day was clear: explore the wonders of the Beagle Canal.


Beagle Canal Odyssey

At 9 am, we embarked on a boat cruise that promised both history and natural splendor. Named after the HMS Beagle that charted these waters in the early 19th century with young Charles Darwin onboard, the canal itself speaks of exploratory quests and the relentless spirit of discovery.

Isla Lobos - A Sea Lion's Domain

Our first stop was Isla Lobos. As the name suggests, 'Island of the Sea Lions,' it was a spectacle to watch these magnificent creatures laze around, playing and frolicking in their natural habitat.

The Guiding Light of Faro Les Éclaireurs

Sailing further, the iconic red and white stripes of the Les Éclaireurs lighthouse greeted us. Standing tall amidst the vastness of the canal, it remains a silent guardian, directing sailors for over a century.

Penguin Encounters at Isla Martillo


The day's magic intensified as we reached Isla Martillo, greeted by the curious stares of penguins. Witnessing these flightless birds in their natural environment, waddling around, and taking to the sea with agile grace, was an unforgettable moment.


Tren del Fin del Mundo

Leaving the sea behind, we went to the Southern Fuegian Railway. This historic train, once used to transport prisoners, now carries travelers through the picturesque landscapes of Tierra del Fuego National Park, offering both vistas and a glimpse into Ushuaia's penal-colony past.


At the Edge with a Stamp

The southernmost postal office in Bahía Ensenada Zaratiegui was our next halt. It's a quirky little place where one can send postcards from the 'end of the world,' a fun memory to cherish.


Views at Mirador Lago Acigami


Before bidding adieu to Ushuaia, we took a detour to Mirador Lago Acigami. Overlooking both Bahia Lapataia and Lago Roca, the view encapsulated the untouched beauty of the region, a perfect farewell to Ushuaia.

A taxi whisked us away to the airport for our evening flight. As flight AR1885 took off, the sun cast long shadows over Ushuaia, marking the end of our adventure in the world's southernmost city.

Landing in the bustling metropolis at 11.30 pm, we headed to NH City Buenos Aires for a well-deserved rest, ready for the next leg of our adventure.


Day 5 was a rich blend of nature, history, and personal discovery. From the playfulness of sea lions to the solemnity of a historic railway, every moment was a reminder of how diverse and vibrant our world truly is.


 

3rd March 2023 - BUENOS AIRES - THE SOUL OF ARGENTINA


Morning in Buenos Aires brought the hustle and bustle of a city alive with energy, history, and passion. Known as the "Paris of South America," its streets, avenues, and squares resonate with tales of revolution, culture, and a love for life.

Our guided tour began, offering us insights into the city's rich tapestry of history. Every corner and cobblestone pathway had a story to tell, from days of colonial grandeur to the vibrant culture of the present.

Monumental Pinnacle - The Obelisc

Standing tall and proud on the Avenida 9 de Julio, the Obelisco remains an iconic testament to the city's spirit. Erected in 1936, it commemorates four historic events tied to the city, each represented by a different face of the monument.


Silent Stories at Cementerio de la Recoleta

A visit to this famous cemetery was like stepping into a silent city, where ornate mausoleums and statues stood as lasting memories of those who once shaped the nation. The final resting place of many notable Argentinians, including Eva Perón, it's a space where history and artistry merge.

Colors and Cultures at Caminito

Located in the La Boca neighborhood, Caminito welcomed us with its vibrant streets and murals. Once the home to Italian immigrants, its colorful buildings and street artists capture the bohemian spirit of Buenos Aires.


Dance of Passion - Tango in San Nicolas

As evening approached, the rhythmic beats of tango music filled the air. We found ourselves in San Nicolas, witnessing a live tango performance. The dance, a blend of passion, sorrow, and romance, seemed to encapsulate the essence of Buenos Aires.

A Square of Revolution - Plaza de May

Next, our steps led us to the heart of political Buenos Aires - the Plaza de Mayo. Historically significant, this square bore witness to countless protests and gatherings, including the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo, who courageously sought justice for their disappeared children during the Dirty War.

Dominating one side of the Plaza de Mayo is the Casa Rosada, the official workplace of Argentina's president. With its distinctive pink hue, it stands not just as a center of governance but as a symbol of the nation's heart and soul.


A Beacon from the Past - Pirámide de Mayo

Erected in 1811, the Pirámide de Mayo stands as the oldest national monument in Buenos Aires. Initially built to celebrate the May Revolution, it now stands as a timeless reminder of the city's resilient spirit.


Exhausted but elated, we retreated to our accommodations at NH City Buenos Aires. The city's pulsating rhythms slowly faded into the night, but its stories and memories lingered on, promising more adventures for the morrow.


Day 6 was not just a journey through Buenos Aires; it was an immersion into the very soul of Argentina - a dance of history, culture, and endless passion.


 

4th March 2023 - DAY 8: FROM THE BEAT OF BUENOS AIRES TO THE HISTORIC WHISPERS OF COLONIA


The morning sun cast a golden glow over Buenos Aires, as we readied ourselves for a maritime journey across the Rio de la Plata. Today's destination was not just another city but a leap back in time - to the quaint and historic town of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay.


Boarding the ferry, the waters seemed like a liquid portal, separating the frenetic rhythm of Buenos Aires from the tranquil melodies of Colonia. With every passing wave, the anticipation grew.


Monumento General Artigas - A Tribute to a Hero

As we began our exploration, we were greeted by the impressive statue of General Artigas, a pivotal figure in Uruguay’s fight for independence. Standing tall in Plaza de Armas, it is a symbol of the country's enduring spirit.


Junta Departamental de Colonia - Architectural Marve

A visit to Junta Departamental offered a blend of architectural grandeur and political significance. Its imposing structure is both a testament to the city's colonial past and its vibrant present.


Whispers from the Past - The Historical City Center


Meandering through the cobbled streets of Colonia's historical heart, one can't help but be transported back to the 17th century. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the area is a mosaic of Spanish and Portuguese influences, reflected in the well-preserved buildings, quaint plazas, and ancient walls.


Colonia's Guiding Light - The Lighthouse

Standing sentinel over the town, the Colonia del Sacramento Lighthouse offered panoramic views of the shimmering waters and terracotta rooftops. Its beacon has guided mariners since the 1850s, making it an enduring symbol of Colonia's maritime heritage.

With hearts full of memories, we boarded the 5 pm ferry back to Buenos Aires. The transition from the tranquil lanes of Colonia to the energetic avenues of Buenos Aires was swift, yet smooth.


The Obelisco - Night’s Illuminated Sentinel

As darkness enveloped the city, the Obelisco stood out, bathed in a luminescent glow. This iconic monument took on a different allure under the night sky, making it an irresistible stop.


Evening at Puerto Madero

The day culminated at Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires' waterfront district. With its blend of modern skyscrapers and historic brick buildings, it's a testament to the city's ability to marry the past with the present, all under a canopy of twinkling stars.

Tired but exhilarated, we retreated to the comforts of NH City Buenos Aires, with the whispers of history and the beats of modernity singing us a lullaby.


Day 8 was a journey of contrasts - from the laid-back allure of Colonia to the vibrant verve of Buenos Aires, a dance between two worlds, each with its unique rhythm and story.


 

5th March 2023 - From Tango back home


In the morning we hailed a taxi from our hotel for our way to Ezeiza airport. The lively buzz of the Argentinian capital remained vibrant in our memories as we bid farewell. The city’s history, a blend of indigenous cultures and Spanish colonial influences, had left a profound mark on our souls. This metropolis, once just a distant spot on the world map, was now a collection of memories we'd cherish forever.


We boarded Air Europa flight UX42 in service to Madrid for an 11 hours flight.


 

6th March 2023 - Madrid - Timisoara


Touchdown in Madrid at 5 am and at 9 am we boarded Wizzair flight W63562 that brought us back home in less than 3 hours.

Our journey culminated as we set foot on our homeland. The past week had been a whirlwind of experiences, emotions, and insights into foreign cultures. Yet, there’s something undeniably comforting about returning to familiar grounds. As we journeyed from Buenos Aires to Madrid and finally to Timișoara, it became evident that while destinations may differ, the allure of exploration and discovery remains constant.


And so, as the curtains drew on this chapter of our journey, we were reminded of the timeless beauty of travel. No matter where we go, the stories we collect and the memories we forge bind us to the world and to each other.


 


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